Amidst the celebrations of over 200 summits yesterday, there were tragedies. Some of the ill and injured made it down to our tent, among them a team that suffered the effects of oxygen deprivation when their oxygen malfunctioned, then ran out waiting on fixed lines. Frostbite is not uncommon in cold windy conditions, and we see an incidence of ~ 2-3% in summit climbers. However, hypoxia markedly increases the chances of cold injury. Yesterday a few climbers visited for care after descent. They described long waits on fixed lines, during which time they used more of their oxygen than they budgeted. Running out of oxygen can be deadly at extreme altitudes, but the patient below was able to get down with his life. Unfortunately, his fingers reveal signs of deep frostbite. We initiated care with aloe dressings, anti-inflammatories and oxygen – he will descend for further care. We are wishing the rest of the teams on the mountain a safe climb.
